2009 Holiday Dinner at Nel Centro

Willamette Wine Tasters

2009 Holiday Dinner

December 18, 2009

Nel Centro in the Hotel Modera

On a beautiful evening just days before the Winter Solstice, we gathered for our annual Holiday Dinner. Earlier this year, Loren Bunnell suggested Nel Centro, one of several restaurants run by David Machado in Portland. Only a handful of members had been to the restaurant on prior occasions. Greg Bunnell met with Michelle Glass, Nel Centro's Assistant General Manager, last month to have a look at the private rooms and the upcoming winter menu. The hotel, in conjuction with Nel Centro, offerers two private dining room choices, the Nizza and Genova. The rooms are located just north of the outside patio which offers up a nice place to sit by the large fire pit.

Greg gave Michelle a budget and she put together the menu. Yes, it was that simple. Once Greg and Michelle agreed upon the menu, he went to work requesting that each member select a wine to go with one of the five courses for the evening. As in year's past, the wine pairings came together without a hitch.

Enrico and Michelle Glass of Nel Centro

The staff of Nel Centro set us up in the larger room, the Genova, with two long wooden tables. Both tables were nicely plated ahead of time. As members started to arrive, it became clear that it might be a tight fit especially for the pre-dinner mingling. Without blinking an eye, Michelle opened the sliding doors to the Nizza and the event officially started on a great note. As each member arrived, Greg started organizing the wines as they would be served throughout the evening.

In the Nizza, Greg started to assemble the sparklers and Champagne with the first course. The initial course consisted of passed Endive with Blue Cheese and Walnuts, Duck Confit Crostini, Salt Cod Croquettes with a Red Pepper Rouille, and Cheese Stuffed Saffron Risotto. To compliment these starters, we sampled two lovely sparkling wines, a Champagne, a Riesling and a Chardonnay. Greg brought a 1997 Frank Family Brut that had a small amount of cognac added during the bottling phase. Bill Kimmer opened the second sparkler, a 1998 Argyle Blanc de Blanc, Knudsen Vineyar, and Brad Courtney popped open a NV Duval Leroy from Champage. It was amazing to taste and smell the difference between these wines and how they married so well with all of the appetizers. Mike Webb also contributed a 2005 Zilliken Riesling Spatlese that had just the right amount of sweetness. The last bottle opened was also brought by Greg, a 2007 Brickhouse Chardonnay that tasted more like a Old World Burgundy than an Oregon Chardonnay in both taste and mouthfeel. And when the Duval seemed a bit warm, an ice bucket arrived without skipping a beat.

The Endive, Risotto and Duck Confit (l to r).

After about an hour of catching up and raving about the Duck Confit and Risotto, we found our way to the tables. Greg was busy taking photos with "his" new camera of all those attending while everyone found their places around the tables. The second course was a Potato, Fennel and Leek soup that was served at the perfect temperature - sometimes soup is served near a boiling point and you miss both the flavors and textures. Not true here. Brant Blodgett was gracious enough to say grace reminding us what the season and friendship is really about.

Potato, fennel and leek soup.

For this course, we started with two beautiful whites from across the pond, a 2000 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blance courtesty of Howard Johnson and a 2003 Paul Jaboulet Hermitage Blanc Le Chevalier de Sterimberg from Mike Webb's cellar. Everyone agreed that sharing a standard bottle with eighteen people for these wines was, well, both good and bad. With the two whites, Neil Bell searched deep into his cellar and located a magnum of the the 1979 Elk Cove Pinot Noir Reserve. This still had hints of its earlier life as a fresh wine after all of the passing years. We tasted this with another magnum, a 2003 Ken Wright Canary Hill Pinot Noir that was brought by Brant Blodgett. Although there were some concerns (not really) based upon the condition of the cork, this wine proved why Ken Wright has the following he does.

We moved to the Pasta Course - a choice of either Herb Gnocchi with a Wild Boar Ragu or Risotto Frutti di mare with scallops, shrimp and calamari. The wine flight for this course came together as if it had been planned ahead of time. Loren started the ball rolling when he offered up a 1994 Ch. Pichon Lalande Comtesse. Mike Webb followed in suit with a 1994 Ch. Talbot. Brant Blodgett stuck with the vintage theme but stayed New World with a 1994 BV Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon. And Howard Johnson filled out the flight with a 1994 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon. Each wine had characteristics you'd think would be associated with a Bordeaux or California Cabernet, but they were also remarkably different.

Herb gnocchi with wild boar ragu.

Risotto frutti di mare.

As you can see from the photos, the kitchen and Chef de cuisine Paul Hyman, did not want us to leave with an empty stomach. After raving about the food and the wine, the next course (via a seamless brigadge service) arrived. As with the second course, we had a choice for this course that included Herb Marinated Rotisserie Chicken, Braised Lamb Shank and Roasted Pork. For the wine pairings, we stepped it up a bit and moved to some inky Syrah's. Greg Bunnell shared a 2006 Lucia Susan's Hill Santa Lucia Highlands Syrah while Bill Kimmer graciously opened a 1997 E & E Black Pepper Shiraz from the Barossa Valley. Steve DeShaw brought a 2004 L'Adventure Syrah from Paso Robles and the flight was finished with a 1995 Auguste Clape Syrah via Brad Courtney. As with the last wine course, all of these wines were beautiful - and very different. It was nice to see how each wine evolved in the glass and married with each of the entree choices.

The Braised lamb shank with a winter root puree.

At about this time, the staff at Nel Centro found themselves bringing in boxes so that many could find comfort in the food the following day. It should be mentioned, and probably earlier, that the staff at Nel Centro was so pleasant and professional. From the wine service to the multiple courses that required rinsing of stemware, our waitstaff, Danielle and Enrico, were fabulous.

Danielle and Enrico getting ready for yet another flight of wine.

At about this time, the blaze and colors from the outdoor pation fire pit called many. The weather gods blessed us with a warmer than usual night and we found ourselves sipping a gorgeous 2003 Ch. D'Arche Sauternes that Loren Bunnell had found on a recent trip to Palm Springs. Digging further into his cellar, Neil Bell also opened a 1969 Dry Sercial Madiera. But the highlight for many was the suprise that Steve DeShaw shared - our late friend Jack Meyers' 1985 Pinot Port.

This year only Paul and Vickie Bonar were not able to attend as they already had plans to meet one of their sons in Mexico. And we had a special appearance courtesy of Brad and Diana Courtney - their new son Kellen.